2014 Varner "Home Block-Spring Ridge Vineyard" Santa Cruz Mountains Chardonnay Full and tight with lots

Full and tight with lots of dark fruit

It becomes bright and fresh with air

and the creamy bubbles and lightly sweet flavors of raspberry sorbet and sliced strawberries will spread mirth with abandon

No doubt Helen Turley

Neat citrus lift

2014 Varner "Home Block-Spring Ridge Vineyard" Santa Cruz Mountains Chardonnay Full and tight with lotsVarner's 2014 Chardonnay Home Block is painfully young and austere, almost a California version of Chablis in its piercing intensity until the fruit kicks in. But the weight and overall structure are very clearly those of the Santa Cruz Mountains. Lemon, flowers, white pepper and chalk are all nicely delineated throughout. Readers will have to be especially patient with the Home Block, as it is quite reticent at this stage. (AG)